T.N.R. =  Trap - Neuter - Return

The purpose of T.N.R. is to reduce feral cat populations by halting reproduction.
It is the most effective means of controlling street cat numbers.
The T.N.R. project transforms a plague of fraught street cats into a small healthy managed colony;
reducing problem behavious, reducing disease spread and the treated cats maintain control over other vermin.

 
 
 

Why we Support TRN for Population Control

Residential compounds are like heaven for city street cats; they provide food, water and shelter. There are thousands of street cats living in the city. With the resources of the compounds and with no natural predators these cats can breed to levels resembling an infestation. Trapping and culling has been used to keep their numbers under control. Let's compare that to the T.R.N. option:

Option 1:

Culling Cats

 


killing cats

problems
return
Culling
Continues
more
move in

breeding
continues

...creates a constant cycle of killing and repopulating.

Trapping and culling has been used as a substitute to natural predation, to try to control their numbers.

Culling provides short term reduction in animal numbers. Even if eradication is almost complete numbers will return to previous levels within 6-9 months.

Culling creates, what is termed, an ecological vacuum; i.e. external animals migrate in to take advantage of newly available resources and any remaining animals breed more successfully while resource competition is reduced.

Additionally, culling increases the spread of disease secondary to animal migration and re-establishment of territories and new mates.

Repetitive trap and cull programmes are widely regarded as inhumane.

Option 2:

Trap-Neuter-Return

 

Stray and
Feral Cats?
Neuter
the Cats

and
That's
That!

...a small, stable number of healthy animals.

TNR results in selected number of neutered cats, which form a small established colony, within the compound.


In turn, this
  • deters immigration of external animals
  • reduces disease spread
  • removes most of the problem behaviours associated with breeding feral cats.

 
 

Breeding and Population Control

Some people misunderstand just how significant breeding is to population control. Let's do some maths:

For the Status Quo:

An average female cat
starts breeding at 6 months,
produces 2 litters every year
of 4.8 kittens each time.
Assuming half her kittens are female
and also survive to breed...
that's over 100 new cats
in just 2 years.

The average un-neutered street cat has a life expectancy of less than 3 years

 
 

Getting Started with a TNR programme

Although the TNR process is straightforward, it can be intimidating at the beginning.
Don't be put off, you can really make a difference.
However, before you start do take some time to read up a bit on exactly what T.N.R entails. There are some excellent resources on the web (visit our Contacts page for some examples) or, if you have any specific questions, you can contact us for guidance and advice via info@compoundcats.com .

  1. Take a Census of the number of cats, when / where you see them and their description. This allows you to estimate the size of the problem and track your progress. You will also need to decide how many cats can be accommodated in the compound. If the numbers are already too high, it will be unhealthy to try to save them all and it will be impossible to neuter them as fast as they can breed. Once you have an estimation of numbers and a plan to manage the population you can plan the work more effectively.
  2. Discuss with the compound manager the benefits of the project and get their consent that the neutered cats will not be subject to future killing or dumping - that will defeat your purpose.
  3. Establish a relationship with a veterinarian or a veterinary clinic that will work with feral cats.
  4. Estimate the budget to work on the colony. There tends to be about 60% female to 40% male cats living feral - and this will affect the cost. Most vets offer a discount to treat feral cats since, as professionals, they advocate this humane treatment.
    We charge: 100SR per female and 50SR per male. Ask us for details.
  5. Decide on a plan for how to deal with sick or diseased cats, or nests of kittens who are too young to treat. Some will need to be put to sleep if they are a risk to the health of others, are too feral to cope with nursing care or if they are suffering. Not all vets offer humane euthanasia so ask them before you need it.
  6. Review background information on TNR. Alley Cat Alleys has some particularly useful pdf files you can download, for example the, Humane Trapping Instructions fact-sheet.
  7. Notify other residents that the project is starting. It is important that they identify their own cats with ID-tags and collars and understand the importance of leaving your trapped cats alone! This is a good time to re-check and revive the compound's pet register.
  8. Ask friends, neighbours, etc for help. Ask for volunteers, donations of cat food, litter, carry boxes, blankets etc. Maybe a neighbour has been feeding a mother cat but has not considered neutering her.
  9. Acquire and learn how to use the equipment needed to humanely trap i.e..
    • i.e. A non-traumatic, live capture trap. Check it has no sharp edges, spikes etc
    • protective gloves
    • shade cloth / blankets
    • several cans of tuna or wet cat food.
    • an understanding taxi driver who can transport cats (some vets can collect cats or operate at your place).
  10. Trap, neuter, and return the cats.

Remember, every little bit helps.


Even if you can only afford to neuter the one or two cats begging at you door step,
that would be the single most helpful thing you can do for their wellbeing
and to ensure their acceptance in the community.
 
 

Some Tricks for Traps

There are many pest control companies in the city from which you can aquire traps. BUT these are usually poorly made.
Sharp edges and weak joins and clasps can make them very hazardous to the cats and difficult for you to use.
By all means, if you can get one that is sturdy and safe, it is an easy option. But please check it very carefully first.
We do have some contacts for local suppliers where you can buy some great traps. Please email us for details.

There are many companies overseas that make excellent professional traps. We've used ones from TrapMan but there are several other companies - shop around:

HavahartTomahawk Traps
Trap Mantru-catch traps
 
 

The Do's and Don't of Catching Cats

DO

  • Talk to your neighbours about your plans to trap - maybe they know where to find some of the cats or can even handle the friendly ones without the need for trapping.
  • Organise a feeding schedule so the cats get used to being fed at the same place and time of day.
  • Practice working your traps ahead of time.
  • Plan your trapping session so that the cats are transported to the vet as soon as possible.
  • Leave the trap -unset and covered- in the area for a few days, so that the cat will get used to seeing and smelling it.
  • Prepare traps at a distance away from the actual trapping site or well before the usual feeding time. Loud noises and quick motions at the trapping site will scare cats away.
  • Use smelly bait, sardines, etc.
  • Use a stable, level surface. Pick places close to where the cats walk / feed.
  • Be sneekie. Use things you find in the area to camouflage the traps; e.g. branches, leaves, a cardboardbox etc.
  • Cover the traps - during and after trapping. Use either a large towel, or tape newspaper around. This adds camouflage and after trapping it helps keep the cat calm. It also prevents the cat tapping at the sides if it can see the bait through the mesh - which can close the trap before the cat is inside.
  • Check nothing is blocking the trap door or lock mechinism.
  • Be patient. If you try to scare the cats into the traps or chase them, they will just avoid you.
 

DON'T

  • Get emotional.
  • Argue with people who don't support you.
  • Put too much bait at the front of the trap, or the cat will be full before tripping the trap.
  • Use dirty traps. Even traps that appear clean will carry the scent of the previously trapped cat, which can deter others from entering.
  • Leave traps unattended for long.
  • Leave the trap in the sun. Especially in our desert summers, cats will die if left in the sun, in as little as an hour!
  • Leave the trap out in the cold. Frosty winters can be hazardous, especially for kittens, cats can get hypothermic without good shelter.
  • Try to trap a nursing female. It is better to find her kittens and use them to catch her so they stay together. Sometimes you will trap a mother, let the vet know so she can be released back to her kittens as soon as possible if you can't find them too.
  • Release an unsterilized cat that you trapped involuntarily. You may never catch that cat again!
  • Let children or pets around the traps especially after you have a cat inside.
  • Attempt to touch a conscious feral cat. And never let a feral cat run loose in your car or home.
  • Feed just before transport to the vet for surgery. Feral cats may well bite or escape. Travel-sickness can make any cat vomit.
 
Deal with these animals with respect and care but don't expect them to do the same in return
- feral cats aren't pets you can comfort or reason with.
Don't get emotional. Get the job done.
 
 

The ABCD's of Good Trapping Ideas:

Against walls

Street cats tend to follow walls, fences etc for navigation and protection. You will have more luck there than placing a trap in open ground.

Bait trails, Beside cat runs

A bit of bait (or a few cat biscuits), leading from a cat run to the trap, tempts the cat inside. Just enough to smell, not fill up on.

Camouflage traps and Cover Cats

Local objects have a familiar smell and look, so they're good for cover and camouflage. Always cover a cat after it's caught to help keep it calm.

Dawn and Dusk

Cats are most active at hunting around dawn and dust. Use that to your advantage.
 
 

Identifying the treated street cats.

It is obviously very important to be able to identify those cats who have been neutered from those who have not.
  • Neutered cats don't want to go through a second unnecessary surgery.
  • If the pest control are called back it is important to protect those cats that are safe and treated - to protect your work and the health of the community.

Fortunately, there is an internationally recognised sign to identify a neutered street animal and we can use it to give these animals protection. The tip of the left ear is clipped at the same time as the cat has the neutering operation. Then the cat is permanemtly identified and protected. And bacause the same anaesthetic and painkillers, as provided for the surgery, means the cat has no additional discomfort.
For further details on ear tipping please read this reference article.

Some people worry that ear tipping disfigures the cats, makes them appear ugly. I've adopted a street cat with a tipped ear and most people don't even notice! Yet when you look closely, it's an excellent indicator to show which cats been treated.

Please remind your vet that this should to be done, when you take any street cat for its operation.